2011/09/06

Mykonos 米克諾斯


Μύκονος 米克諾斯

或許因為是文明古國,或許因為總是出現在課本的第一章,希臘是那個一直希望在什麼重要時刻和什麼重要的人來,於是一直沒有來的地方。以致最後像是不是我去希臘,而是希臘自己找上門來了一樣,在幾個早晨出現在我的窗前,這樣和我打著招呼:

「嗨,我是聖托里尼!」- 是個曬的黒黒的,我還沒開口就自動把行李提走的健康少女。

「竟然現在才來,太過份了噢。快(跟上)來吧!」- 雅典的聲音比較低,是個恩威並重,戴著黑框眼鏡的女教師,說完便頭也不回地往 Acropolis 神廟上走去。

米克諾斯島沒有聖托里尼那麼熱情,年齡模糊,從二十到三出頭都有可能,一個人躲在無人餐廳的陰影裡,滿臉百無聊賴地托著腮,垂著描上了眼線的雙眼,手在桌上隨性敲著,無視那些在她看膩的海灘上一大片一大片地鋪平的瘋狂遊客。

(為什麼希臘各地擬人化以後都是女性呢?或許幫助我帶來靈感的都是女神,男神們都忙著去做更輝煌、更暴力、更令人不著頭腦的大事了吧。)

「呃,你好...... 」你只有自己和她打招呼。

她還是沒有說話,站起來,用手勢指示你隨便坐,懶懶地拿了菜單,向你走過來。

米克諾斯就是這樣子的。


在1950年變成主要觀光景點前,米克諾斯是個貧窮的,靠捕魚和造船維生的希臘小島。旁邊的 Delos 島是神話中女神居住地,蓋滿了獻給海神、酒神、希拉等等的神廟。今日的 Delos 已經無人居住,只供參觀,米克諾斯則有半年因遊客大量湧入而人口暴漲,這個以風大聞名的小島儼然變成各國男女夏日尋歡作樂、飲酒過量、不費吹灰之力拍出渡假照片的好地方。

走在在力求防曬的亞洲人和盡力曝曬的西方人之間,標準的白牆和鮮紅、翠綠、藍的會發光的門窗無止無盡。乘著飛機降落的遊客們拖著身後的行李,找旅館,躺下,出門覓食,愉快地在迷宮一樣的小巷裡鑽進鑽出,散步、跳舞、邂逅、睡覺。或跳上老到像二戰時期的巴士,前往“超級天堂”裸體海灘,抹上油,在烈陽下把兩面煎得均勻。

表情不置可否的是旺季才來島上幫忙的年輕服務員,整好以暇地以麻木面對千篇一律的渡假狂熱,正懶洋洋地打開店門,搬出盆栽和桌椅;男人們騎著一式一樣的三輪摩托車 - 也有不知道怎麼開進來,也不知道如何能出去的小卡車 - 載著大量的新鮮蔬果回到店裡,準備做足一整天的生意。還有全世界都有的,怔怔坐在路旁,一動不動,一聲不響的伯伯、婆婆,就在你正要移開眼神時,突然想起要回家轉動地球一樣地站起身,往巷子的盡頭走去。

淡季的米克諾斯呼呼地吹著三天不退的風,讓村上寫出了《挪威的森林》,跟著眼前隨時會消失的老人走,慢慢的,走到了沒有遊客來的小巷,陰影下消暑的貓好奇地抬起頭來,表情像要提醒我「這裡可是什麼都沒有噢」。「只是想看看什麼都沒有的地方是什麼樣子罷了」,我回答。牠懶懶地躺了回去。我繼續向上爬。

山頂有個廢棄的風車,身邊吹著可以把人推動的風。眼前無數的白色房子面對著金色的海,這就是希臘的最後一站了。透明的、乾淨的、擁擠的、炎熱的夏日。還沒有見過人聲鼎沸的熱鬧夜晚,和狂風暴雨的冬季,希臘已經找過我了,我什麼時候會來找它呢?

「要走了嗎?」米克諾斯抬起頭問我。我點點頭。她露出沒有喜意,卻滿載理解的微笑,向我揮手說了聲:拜。


Photos on G+

2 則留言:

istanbul tours 提到...

We enjoyed our time in ephesus and very happy with the tours we joined. We saw many interesting places. Thank you very much for your effort and great service. It is a wonderful place with wonderful people. I had a great stay in Istanbul and Ephesus. I was given a nice room by the hotel and people were very polite at the front desk and they were smiling all the time so i felt fine. It was an excellent tour to Ephesus www.privatetoursinistanbul.com House of Virgin Mary. Ephesus was really amazing. Our guide was also very knowledgeable and he asked us to determine our preference before he started to tour. Also I would like to say that i made the reservation by e-mail a couple of days before the date of tour and it worked well. I was picked up from the hotel on time and taken to airport for my early flight and I joined the tour in Ephesus I will definitely come back to turkey and will visit the other places. Thank you very much.

istanbul tours 提到...

We enjoyed our time in ephesus and very happy with the tours we joined. We saw many interesting places. Thank you very much for your effort and great service. It is a wonderful place with wonderful people. I had a great stay in Istanbul and Ephesus. I was given a nice room by the hotel and people were very polite at the front desk and they were smiling all the time so i felt fine. It was an excellent tour to Ephesus www.privatetoursinistanbul.com House of Virgin Mary. Ephesus was really amazing. Our guide was also very knowledgeable and he asked us to determine our preference before he started to tour. Also I would like to say that i made the reservation by e-mail a couple of days before the date of tour and it worked well. I was picked up from the hotel on time and taken to airport for my early flight and I joined the tour in Ephesus I will definitely come back to turkey and will visit the other places. Thank you very much.